Article 2:
“How to hand solder a quad flat pack” by Anthony
Burch
This article describes how to solder a quad flat pack component to a
printed circuit board. The details of the process are covered,
including chip placement, bent pin recovery, tacking, the soldering and
solder bridge removal.
Get your chip ready by placing the component tray on your bench and
opening up the packaging.
There are two things to do before picking up the chip. The first one is
to make sure that you are not going to zap your chip with a lightning
bolt out of your finger. Discharge yourself of any static charge
build-up in your body by either wearing a grounded antistatic wrist
strap, or by touching an exposed metal screw on the grounded case of a
piece of equipment on your bench. Maybe your soldering iron base or a
lab bench power supply.
The second thing to do is to look at where the pin 1 reference on the
chip is. Rotate your circuit board so that when the chip is transferred
over, it will be in the right position with pin 1 markers lined up.
Next, use the vacuum pickup tool to lift up the chip and transfer it
over to the circuit board.
At this stage if you drop or bump the chip, you may have bent one or
more of the legs. You can recover from bent pin legs using the
following procedure.
Get a hypodermic needle and a fine pair of pliers. Make a small 90
degree bend on the tip of the hypodermic needle. The bend acts as a
kind of hook or puller for the bent pin legs.
Next, put on your head magnifiers so that you can see what is going on.
Hold down the chip and very carefully pull the bent leg back into
position. Do this very slowly to avoid pulling it too far. Do this for
all bent legs.
Place the chip down carefully on the board. It doesn’t need
to be too accurate at this stage.
Put a finger at opposite corners of the chip and carefully move it
around so that the pads on all sides line up with the device legs. This
takes some time to do, so be patient. It is important to line it up
accurately at this stage.
Next, check all around the chip, by looking from the top, to make sure
that all of the pins are nicely lined up with all of the pads.
Don’t bump the board otherwise the chip will move and you
will
have to realign again.
Now that the chip is in position, it is ready to be tacked down with a
few solder blobs. To tack the chip down, start by putting a little blob
of solder onto the chisel tip of your soldering iron.
Then very carefully touch the solder blob onto one of the corner pads.
It doesn’t matter if you get 2 or 3 pads at this stage.
Don’t let the actual soldering iron tip touch the legs
–
you just want some contact of the molten solder to the leg and the pad.
The objective at this stage is not to make a good solder joint but
simply to get some solder onto the leg and pad to hold the chip down to
the board.
Carefully rotate the board around and put a little solder blob on each
of the other 3 corner pads.
The next step involves applying gel flux, so make sure that you are
wearing powder free latex gloves to avoid getting flux on your hands.
Take the gel flux syringe and apply the flux to all the pads, all the
way around the chip. Put on a reasonably good amount of flux. The chip
is now ready for soldering.
There will be a lot of solder fumes during the soldering, so make sure
that you are wearing a face respirator and have good ventilation in
your work area.
Put some solder into the reservoir tip of the iron. You don’t
necessarily need to fill up the reservoir. As long as there is a small
amount of solder there, the solder will flow out onto the pins and pads
when the tip comes into contact with them.
Next, just run the iron slowly across the feet of the pins. Of course,
don’t press down too hard – just guide the iron
along. It
is OK to run the iron back along some of the pins if you feel that
there may not have been solder coverage of some of the pads.
I like to wipe the tip of the iron on a damp sponge after every chip
edge. This removes the dross or residue that builds up on the iron tip
as you go along. Whenever you wipe the tip of the iron, you will need
to reload the reservoir tip with some more solder before doing another
edge.
If you can see that you have created some solder bridges on some of the
pins, wipe the iron tip again. Put a little more flux just on those
pins and then bring down the tip of the iron to suck away the excess
solder from the joints.
After cleaning the flux residue from the board it is important to check
all the way around the chip again for solder bridges. If there are any
bridges, apply flux gel just to those pins and use the reservoir tip to
suck away the excess solder. Once done, clean and inspect the board
again.
That completes the description of the quad flat pack soldering process,
including chip placement, bent pin recovery, tacking, the soldering and
solder bridge removal.
About the Author
There are many low cost tools and techniques for soldering small
batches of printed circuit boards or one-off prototypes. Some of these
techniques are well known while others have been invented and
reinvented by small tech companies and advanced hobbyists. A few good
tips can be worth their weight in gold (not just their weight in
solder). Discover the tips that can save you days of soldering time or
thousands of dollars in outsourcing costs. Anthony’s site has
many videos that reveal exactly these kinds of valuable soldering tips.
Go to
http://SuperSolderingSecrets.com